Culture Bitch

…there were two foodies in search of a great meal, reasonably priced. Lo and behold, they found something special: an underground supper club, of a sort.

I had come across the concept of these secret dining events in various articles and blogs, and finally found one that seemed right up our alley: O.N.C.E., or “One Night Culinary Event”. Run by a local chef, it’s an almost completely locally-sourced meal, made of seasonal ingredients, prepared and served by the chef and her several assistants, in a location to be determined, scheduled as the whim strikes them.

We found out about the most recent one just a few days before it was to happen, so we had to move fast, sending off a check and hoping we got our money’s worth.

Did we ever.

Advertised as a “multi course locavore familystyle dinner party,” the theme for this O.N.C.E. was LOL, or Lots of Lobster. We were assured there would be at least four tastings of lobster. Best of all, the event was BYOB. How bad could that be?

On the appointed evening, Book Bastard and I showed up, two chilled bottles of Macon-Villages in hand to a large non-descript building near Union Square in Somerville, which apparently houses some sort of artist cooperative. There was a large kitchen/office/living space that had been converted into a makeshift dining room, set with some real tables, a few folding tables, lots of tray tables in front of couches & comfy chairs. It was like some huge, crazy dinner party and the atmosphere was convivial and fun. Just about everyone had a view of the open kitchen where the chef and her team worked to prepare and serve each course.

Although there were a couple of tables for two set, Book Bastard and I decided to be social and chose a table of four, mainly so we could have a better view of the kitchen, and hoping we got some good dinner companions. Happily, a lovely older couple sat with us, and we had a great time talking about our shared love of food and, especially, travel. We exchanged travel tales, and picked up some great recommendations for a potential future barge trip in France.

The meal itself - seven courses in all - was well paced and delicious. The first course, a sort of amuse-bouche, was what the chef referred to as “the world’s tiniest surf & turf”. Servers came around with one platter of toothpicked-skewered cubes of a roast with au jus to dip it in, and another platter of lobster chunks with a rich butter sauce. I could easily have eaten the entire platter of lobster. It was a deliciously cruel tease.

Next up was a pumpkin risotto, which was creamy and very good, though I thought it could have had a little more seasoning. Not a huge complaint though, as the pumpkin flavor was clear and good.

Another lobster course, a chilled lobster salad atop a fried green tomato. This was one of my favorites of the night. I confess I’d never had a fried green tomato, and it made me a fan. The tartness of the green tomato was a great complement to the sweet lobster, and the crispness of the breading gave a great texture. A third lobster dish followed, lobster ravioli with a butternut squash sauce, which contained a hint of vanilla. Each component separately was delicious, but Book Bastard and our tablemates all thought the sauce was too overpowering for the ravioli. I found them good, and the lobster taste evident, provided you didn’t put too much sauce on the pasta. (Side note: I think the ravioli would have been amazing in the butter sauce passed with the first course.)

Next up was an arugula and apple salad, and the apples had been sauteed in bacon fat. ‘Nuff said. Yum.

And finally, my absolute favorite dish of the evening: Goan Lobster Curry. I love spice, and heat. This curry had some serious heat, but not just heat, as you could really smell and taste individual spices, including the sweetness of cinnamon, combined with the heat of cayenne. The sweet richness of the lobster was perfect for this curry, which was served over a fragrant basmati rice. I could have eaten several bowls.

After that, what could you have but dessert? To cool the palate, there was a lychee icecream served over wedges of local pale green watermelon. This was a lovely, refreshing finish to a great meal.

There is no question that we will be keeping an eye out for the next O.N.C.E., and looking forward to another fun evening shared with foodies like us.